【摘要】:天马山旧时曾为佛道胜地,香火极盛。据明代文学家陈继儒《修宝光塔疏》中所记,每当日出或傍晚时分,阳光透过带水汽的云雾,就会在塔的四周出现一个七彩光环,因此有人也称之为“护珠宝光塔”。据1982年勘查,护珠塔顶中心移位2.27米。目前斜塔已经得到文物管理单位的全面维修加固,确保安全。当地人传说这株古银杏乃神之手,支撑着护珠塔斜而不倒。
Huzhu Pagoda
天马山位于佘山西南部、松江新城西北方向,古称干山,传说春秋吴国干将曾铸剑于此而得名。天马山海拔98.2米,山势较陡峭,有“天马耸脊”之称,南坡陡,有峭壁,北坡缓而长。山体脊线近东西方向,山形如一匹展翅欲飞的天马,后人称天马山。
天马山旧时曾为佛道胜地,香火极盛。山间曾有岳祠、二陆草堂、圆智教寺、上峰寺、中锋寺、玉皇殿、东岳行宫等寺庙宫观,后由于战乱,大都遭到破坏。如有兴趣之人前往山上,还能寻到些古遗迹。
山的中峰现遗存有一座建于宋代的塔,砖木结构,七层八角,即护珠塔。塔高约20米,在留存于世的松江区的五座古塔中,此塔是唯一保持残存状态的。它的倾斜状态目前稳定在7.1°,已经超过了比萨斜塔的斜度。
据清嘉庆《松江府志》卷七十五《圆智教寺记》载:“寺后护珠宝塔,宋元丰二年(1079)横云里人许文全建。”南宋绍兴二十七年(1157),高宗赐五色佛舍利藏于此塔内,传说常可观其宝光显现。据明代文学家陈继儒《修宝光塔疏》中所记,每当日出或傍晚时分,阳光透过带水汽的云雾,就会在塔的四周出现一个七彩光环,因此有人也称之为“护珠宝光塔”。
在明洪武二十四年(1391),圆智寺成为江南名刹。万历年间(1573—1619)寺院增设了地藏、焚香潮音、双松云泉等殿堂,成为文人墨客流连忘返之地。
据清人诸联的《明斋小识》记载,到了清代,天马山上香火仍很旺盛。乾隆五十三年(1788),寺里演戏祭神,由于燃放爆竹不慎失火,护珠塔被烧去塔心木及扶梯、楼板,腰檐、平座也遭毁坏,仅剩下砖砌的塔身。后人在残存的塔砖缝中发现宋代元丰钱币,众人开始不断拆砖觅宝,使塔底西北角逐渐被拆去,形成2米直径的大窟窿。后又由于地基变动,使塔身逐渐朝东南方向倾斜。
清末,寺庙大部分建筑损毁,后日军侵华时破坏加剧,仅存残塔与瓦砾。据1982年勘查,护珠塔顶中心移位2.27米。目前斜塔已经得到文物管理单位的全面维修加固,确保安全。
斜塔边还有一株树龄为700多年的古银杏,相传为宋银甲将军周文达亲手种植,旁边还有一口古井相伴。当地人传说这株古银杏乃神之手,支撑着护珠塔斜而不倒。
参观指南
天马山园每日7:30—16:30开放。斜塔处于山的中部,山势较陡,需拾级而上,建议着轻便运动鞋。
Tianma Hill is located to the southwest of Sheshan Hill and northwest of Songjiang New City, about 98.2 meters above sea level. Tianma Mountain contains Tianma Ridge and includes a cliff in the south with a long, gentle slope in the north. The ridge line follows an east-west orientation and shaped, it is said, like Pegasus spreading his wings. From this it has been named Tianma (Pegasus).
Long ago, Tianma Hill contained many prosperous Buddhist temples. There were Yue Temple, Erlu Cottage, Yuanzhijiao Temple, Shangfeng Temple, Zhongfeng Temple, Jade Emperor Temple, and Dongyue Palace. All but a few were destroyed during wars and many are still visible as ancient ruins scattered throughout the hills.
A seven-story octagonal pagoda built with brick and wood during the Song dynasty remains at the peak of the mountain. Huzhu Pagoda, standing about 20 meters high, is the last among the five ancient towers in Songjiang. It leans currently at 7.1 degrees, exceeding the gradient of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
In 1788 (Qing), the temple held a performance to offer sacrifices to the gods, but accidentally caught fire due to the firecrackers. All but the brickwork in the tower body were lost in the flames. Later, with the discovery of ancient coins amongst the rubble, villagers from nearby began disassembling the bricks in search of treasure. As a result, the northwest corner of the tower bottom was gradually effected by a large, two-meter hole, causing the tower to tilt gradually toward the southeast.
At the end of the Qing dynasty, most of the buildings in the temple had suffered damage. When the Japanese army invaded China, the temples were further destroyed, leaving only the tower. According to a 1982 survey, the tower has developed a lean, with its top being displaced by 2.27 meters. Later, the leaning tower was fully repaired and buttressed by the city government.
Beside the tower and ancient wall, there exists an ancient ginkgo tree believed to be greater than 700 years old and is said to have been planted by Zhou Wenda, a general during the Song dynasty. The ancient ginkgo is said to be of divine origins, sent to provide support and keeping the tower from collapsing.
Tips
Hours:7:30–16:30.Because of the steep slope, sneakers are highly recommended.
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