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西林塔:上海松江古塔,高7层,是最高古塔

【摘要】:元代松江城内四座佛塔中的兴圣寺塔(方塔)和延恩塔(西林塔)保存至今,而留存“塔寺合一”布局的仅有西林寺。明正统十二年,英宗赐寺额“西林大明禅寺”,称宝塔为西林塔,沿用于今。古塔平面为八角形,高七层,塔高46.5米,砖木结构,其高度为松江现存五座古塔之首,是上海最高的古塔。据出土的碑刻和文物记载,西林塔在明清两代多次得到重修和维护。直到1992年西林塔得到全面的修缮,恢复目前之外观。

Xilin Pagoda

元代陶宗仪《南村辍耕录》卷十五载:“松江城中有四塔,西曰普照,又西曰延恩,西南曰超果,东南曰兴圣。”元代松江城内四座佛塔中的兴圣寺塔(方塔)和延恩塔(西林塔)保存至今,而留存“塔寺合一”布局的仅有西林寺。

西林寺在建设初期,名为云间接待院(松江古称云间),院内曾经有一座崇恩宝塔,又名延恩塔,始建于南宋咸淳年间(1265—1274),气势非凡。但在元朝初年该宝塔毁于战火,后在明洪武二十年(1387)重建寺庙,并同期修建宝塔。明正统十二年(1447),英宗赐寺额“西林大明禅寺”,称宝塔为西林塔,沿用于今。

古塔平面为八角形,高七层,塔高46.5米,砖木结构,其高度为松江现存五座古塔(西林塔、方塔、秀道者塔、护珠塔、李塔)之首,是上海最高的古塔。

西林塔南门上匾“圆应塔”三字为集近代高僧弘一法师手迹。宝塔内有砖石楼梯可以通往塔顶,二层以上门洞为莲花瓣拱形,登塔者随石梯逐层而上,寓“步步生莲花”之意。塔内空间随着层数增加而变小,到第四层以上需躬身才能出入莲花拱门。在第五层能看到直径约为40厘米的塔心木,直通塔刹。塔刹由覆钵、宝珠、铜葫芦宝顶等构成。

在二层到七层的塔墙上,东西南北各有一组砖雕佛像龛,每组三个,中间一个较大,两侧稍小,为砖刻烧制而成,均为明代原物。共有72个佛龛,大部分保持完好,供奉人的姓名清晰可见。在每一层台阶和塔身内墙砖上,还依稀可见刻有供养宝塔信徒的名字。

据出土的碑刻和文物记载,西林塔在明清两代多次得到重修和维护。直到1992年西林塔得到全面的修缮,恢复目前之外观。经过文物和建筑专家的考证,宝塔除顶层塔身为后期重建外,其余塔身均为明代原物,围栏、木斗拱、平座为清代式样,塔身砖斗为明朝修复建设的宋式。

In 1447 (Ming), the emperor bestowed upon the temple an inscribed board with “Xilin Daming Temple” and the tower has since been called Xilin Pagoda.

The pagoda is an octagonal brick-wood structure with seven stories and measuring 46.5 meters high. It is both the tallest of any of the few surviving ancient pagodas in Songjiang and also the tallest ancient tower in Shanghai.

The characters inscribed on the south gate are written by Master Hong Yi. There are brick stairways leading to the top of the tower which pass through lotus petal-shaped doorways above the second floor. The space inside the tower shrinks as climbers ascend the staircase until it becomes necessary to bend down to enter the doorway above the fourth floor. The central wood of the tower is thick and strong while the wood (with a diameter of about 40 cm) extends all the way to the finial.

From the second to the seventh floors, the walls include four sets of brick-carved Buddhas resting in niches, three apiece with the middle one larger. All of the 72 statues are originals from the Ming dynasty and most are well preserved with the names of the worshippers still clearly visible. On the steps and the inner wall, the inscribed names of the structure's patrons are also faintly visible.

According to the records, Xilin Pagoda was restored several times during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Except for the renovated top, other parts of the tower were the originals in the Song dynasty. The brick bucket sets were restored during the Ming dynasty in the Song style while the balustrades, wooden bucket set, and the podium are in the style of the Qing dynasty.

参观指南

西林禅寺每日5:30—16:30开放。

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Hours: 5:30–16:30.